Official Travel Thread

[alady]

That's true! I've done that before (never again, Alitalia).

[claypoolfan]

About a week out from our Japan honeymoon. I feel like I’ve been planning this for so long and I can’t believe it’s here.

Peak cherry blossom season happened to hit this year exactly when we are going to be there. Kind of nervous about the crowds but it’ll definitely be an experience. Super glad we booked everything so far ahead of time and before they opened back up, we saved a lot of money.

[doso]

Doso's NOLA Recap - Thursday

Had a weird issue at the hotel where the bathtub stopper was screwed down into the tub. After running out of patience waiting for someone from the hotel to show up, I MacGyver'd it by using the end of a wine key as a screwdriver. Anyway, a later start than expected.

Took the streetcar to City Park where we grabbed beignets and coffee at Cafe du Monde. Incredibly happy we visited that location after seeing the massive line at the Cafe du Monde in the French Quarter a few days later. After visiting the sculpture garden, we hopped the bus to Liuzza’s by the Track for gumbo and po’ boys. Also walked a block over to Santa Fe for margaritas which were quite strong before taking the bus back to the hotel to chill out/nap. (The weather was unseasonably hot the whole time we were there.)

I lucked out and got an early dinner reservation for Brigtsen’s just two days earlier. What a fantastic meal (h/t to ten15 for the reco). I started off with a very memorable duck fat Sazerac followed by veal sweetbreads, broiled redfish w/ crab topping and pecan pie. Mrs. Doso had a salad, the porkchop and this incredible strawberry shortcake made with biscuits rather than sponge cake. Loved our charming waiter, Ruben, too. It was quite chilly in the restaurant; I should've worn a long sleeve shirt.

After dinner, we caught a Bonerama show at Chickie Wah Wah with special guest Dave Malone of The Radiators. Fun show, but the venue was only half full. Mrs. Doso wasn't feeling great, so we headed back to the hotel after about 75-90 minutes of music.

[doso]

Doso's NOLA Recap - Friday

Took the 91 bus to Stein's for breakfast. I planned on getting something along the lines of a bagel/egg situation, but I pivoted to the Cuban sandwich special which was an excellent alternative. The coffee from the little subcontracted vendor in the corner was subpar, so we grabbed new cups at PJ's and took a leisurely walk down Magazine Street to Louisiana where we headed north to catch the St. Charles streetcar back to the hotel.

Mrs. Doso had scoped out spots for hot yoga and she took an afternoon class at Magnolia (they claim to be New Orleans' first black-owned studio) while I fucked around at the hotel. After class we headed to the French Quarter for the first time and somehow lucked into a couple of chairs by the window at the very-crowded Carousel Bar. Ordered cocktails and a couple of small plates as a tide-over before walking over to Toulouse Street for our Lewd Spirits (Ghost) Tour.

Ghost tours are decidedly not my thing, but the tour guide was entertaining and a skilled storyteller. The tour also featured stops at two bars, including May Baily's Place in the Dauphine Hotel where a lovely jazz trio was performing. I think I held up the tour a bit listening to them finish their set.

Stopped back at the hotel to change/freshen up, then took a Lyft to Bistro Daisy (again, h/t to ten15) for dinner. I had a superb black drum fish special and Mrs. Doso had the filet mignon which was her favorite meal of the visit.

After dinner, I dropped off Mrs. Doso at the hotel and proceeded to Blue Nile on Frenchman Street where Kermit Ruffins was playing his weekly show. This was the musical highlight of the trip for me - Kermit was one of the main reasons I wanted to visit New Orleans. The venue was only about 70% full, making it easy to get drinks and relocate as needed. Probably the best crowd, too, with a very good mix of folks including an unexpected number of young people. Kermit was very high and brought up a few guests including his daughter.

I'd only planned on going to Blue Nile, but I figured this would be a good opportunity to catch a late set at Spotted Cat. I heard the last half hour or so of Catahoulas (they were fine), then finally got back to the hotel around 2:45am and poured myself to bed.

[ten15]

So glad the restaurant recs worked well for you.

I am heading to New Orleans at the end of the month. Getting super excited. Going to suggest the Cafe du Monde at City Park, as some of my fellow travelers really want to go there. I don't drink coffee and think beignets are way messier than they are worth, so at least we won't have to wait in as long of a line. (And then I can get everyone to check out Second Line Brewing nearby.)

[krentist]

Will amplify the praise and say Brigstens was the best meal I had in New Orleans and I also owe it all to my guy ten15.

[doso]

Doso's NOLA Recap - Saturday

Mrs. Doso returned to Magnolia for yoga while I slept off my late night on Frenchman, followed by plotting the best approach to the St. Patrick's parade festivities in the Irish Channel neighborhood. Settled on taking the 11 bus which would normally go down Magazine but was rerouted to Tchoupitoulas (which I learned to pronounce correctly thank to Reddit).

Got off the 11 just past Wal-Mart and walked up Jackson to Turkey and the Wolf. ten15 kb @scotts I highly recommend checking this place out for lunch. I would've ordered the fried bologna sandwich, but it was sold out, so I went with the smoked ham sandwich (delicious) and Mrs. Doso got the collard greens melt (also delicious) and we split a small wedge salad. Very progressive joint with a line out the door, but it moved at a good clip and the frozen margarita plus the gin and tea hit the spot.

After lunch we continued up Jackson and came upon the parade at the corner of Jackson and Magazine where the route turned north on Jackson. This turned out to be a fantastic spot to watch the floats go by and I was thrilled to catch a package of ramen as well as a "Kiss me, I'm Irish" football. There was also a bar on this corner conveniently selling bloodys (for me) and prosecco (for Mrs. Doso) among other libations.

After enjoying the parade for a while, we walked west on Magazine towards the block parties at Tracey's and Parasol's. Molly's was too jam packed for my taste and Parasol's was more tolerable, but after fighting through the crowd, we were feeling like we'd had enough St. Pat's reverie. I figured maybe we'd walk back towards Tchoupitoulas and maybe catch the 11 bus back to our hotel or hail an Uber. Instead, we happened upon the Tchoup House which I'd noted as a potential watering hole in my research. Spent about an hour enjoying a drink and relaxing in their expansive courtyard before heading back to the hotel for our afternoon nap.

Our late dinner reservation was at Patois (just a few blocks from Bistro Daisy). I had their excellent dark roux gumbo and a tremendous seafood pasta, followed by pistachio ice cream dusted with fluer de sel for dessert. Mrs. Doso had a hangar steak entree which I thought was excellent.

After dinner we went to Frenchman to catch the Original Pinettes Brass Band (all female) at d.b.a. Great club and I was thrilled to learn that Jazz Henry, who I knew as a young actress from HBO's Tremé, was actually a member of the ensemble. They mentioned they were playing in NYC on Monday night, but it was an hour subway ride and I was frankly too tuckered to make it after the early flight home that morning.

I suggested that we could perhaps walk back to the hotel via Bourbon Street and Mrs. Doso was into it. Kinda wild how the east end of Bourbon is almost... desolate? We grabbed to-go drinks at Lafitte's and took a leisurely stroll down the entirety of Bourbon in all its Saturday night reverie. This seemed to be a highlight of the vacation for Mrs. Doso and I was glad to experience it as well.

[doso]

Doso's NOLA Recap - Sunday

Slept in (kinda - the clocks cruelly skipped an hour ahead for daylight savings while we were asleep) and walked back through the FQ to Sylvain for a lovely brunch outdoors on their patio/courtyard. After brunch, we walked past Jackson Square toward Cafe du Monde and encountered the insane line. Skipped that and walked to the river to take in the sights before catching a streetcar back to the hotel.

I'd wanted to check out Tipitina's but their Friday and Saturday evening shows didn't align well with our other plans, so I figured it wouldn't work out. But I checked their schedule and they added an early "fais do do" (aka Cajun dance party) with Bruce Daigrepont Cajun Band at 5:15pm on Sunday, so I chose to take the 11 bus and check it out while Mrs. Doso went to one final yoga class at Magnolia.

I arrived about 10 minutes before showtime and it looked like it was going to be a pretty weak turnout. The balcony was closed and the attendees were decidedly in Ol' Doso's age range or older and most of them were sitting on folding chairs and bar stools on the perimeter of the main floor. But once the music started, the floor was almost instantly filled with people dancing. What a blast - the band sounded great and the crowd of maybe 200 made the venue feel full and vibrant.

I stayed for the first set, then zipped up Napoleon Avenue to the High Hat Cafe where I met Mrs. Doso for dinner. This restaurant is kind of off the beaten path and it's more of a glorified diner than anything, but it may have been the best meal I enjoyed in New Orleans. They served up my favorite gumbo and a spectacular head-on, tail-on BBQ shrimp followed by a warm black bottom peanut pie with Jack Daniels ice cream which completely blew me away. HIGHLY recommended.

Headed back to the hotel, turned on the Oscars and I fukken crashed HARD. Woke up at 5am the next morning to pack and get to the airport for our early flight back to NYC. I'd wanted to get a Central Grocery muffuletta and one of the shops in the airport was selling them, so Mrs. Doso grabbed one which we warmed up and enjoyed for lunch after we arrived back home.

[doso]

kb scoots ten15 et al, Do you ever feel like you want to move to New Orleans? I felt like I missed it as soon as we were on our way to the airport. Obviously, very shaky in terms of hurricane/flooding risk, but goddamn, did I love being there.

Food regrets: didn't get jambalaya, peach cobbler, red beans and rice, or yakamein
Venue regrets: didn't make it to Carrollton Station, Maple Leaf Bar, Bacchanal Wine, Bullet's, Vaughn's, Mother-in-Law Lounge, or Preservation Hall
Bar regrets: didn't make it to Snake and Jake's, Bayou Wine/Beer Gardens, Hot Tin Bar, Columns, Bakery Bar, Cane and Table

I think I've successfully planted the seed in Mrs. Doso's mind that we should go back in early December when airfares and hotels are cheaper and NOLA musicians are off the road and playing shows in local venues.

Side note... fwiw, the locals on the AskNOLA sub-Reddit are begging people to stay at hotels rather than Airbnbs:

"A large number of the vacation rentals available used to be and/or should be workforce housing for the same people who create and sustain the culture you're coming to visit, and who serve you at bars and restaurants throughout your stay. Your decision to stay in an Airbnb directly impacts their housing options close to work and drives up rent across the city. In turn, that negatively affects the ability of our workers and our people to make your stay enjoyable, and over time that is a very, very, very fucking bad thing for us and for you. If, for some reason, an Airbnb stay actually makes sense (typically, a stay longer than 2-3 weeks, or needing a consistent place for frequent business travel - both markets that existed prior to Airbnb but have been taken over by them) (or for a porn shoot, thanks to u/martyzion), please try to verify that the Airbnb is legal by cross-referencing the address to the city's permitting website and looking for a current short-term rental license.

Two other things: A) most Airbnbs are in neighborhoods where we would not recommend tourists wander around at night and your out-of-state plates will be a target for car break-ins, and B) speaking more selfishly, it really sucks having friendly neighbors replaced by monthly bachelor parties."

[cosmo]

I love New Orleans. I went to Voodoo Fest 2017, 18, and 19. But, to answer your question: No, I would not like to live there.

[kb]

yeah, i have definitely had the itch to move there, though the summers seem like they would be intolerable. last time i was there i passed some houses that were for sale, so i looked them up, and now i get multiple redfin alerts for houses there and i ogle them all.

however, my fiance's awful ex moved there a few years ago, which is a big enough deterrent for me.

[alady]

I was hanging with a friend from Austin last weekend and she lamented that everyone visits in the spring or fall for SXSW or ACL and declares they want to live there, not realizing what a hellhole it is the rest of the year. From what I hear from friends there, NOLA is the same (with bonus evacuations and boil water orders!)

[scoots]

A friend of mine lived there for a few years. She loved it, but she's also originally from the south, so I don't think the weather was too much of an adjustment. I'm personally cool with it being a spot I visit every couple of years.

Really hyped for the trip in late June, although I'll be a sweaty mess the entire time.

[ten15]

New Orleans would probably be the frontrunner if we were to buy a home to spend the winter/early spring when we retire/semi-retire. More likely that we will find a place that we can rent for a month or two which would give us flexibility to go to different places each year.

Probably will always live in Chicago given how much family we have here.

[kb]

now that i'm getting old my new lifegoal is to be a snowbird somewhere.

[alady]

I want to be overseas in my old age.

[thebosma]

I’ve always thought it would be funny to move somewhere with way shittier weather when I’m old

[doso]

Yeah I’m sure I’d love living in NOLA until the summer came around and then I’d be a miserable crank. Mrs. Doso’s first choice if/when we move is always Tuscany. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[alady]

I would happily move to Iceland or somewhere Scandinavian assuming I could get that good healthcare.

[thebosma]

I’m going deep into northern Canada

[llamaoftime]

I want to move to Longyearbyen

[ultravisitor]

I could probably be convinced to move almost anywhere in Europe.

Southern US, though? Fuck that shit. Southerners can have their racism. I would not be willing to move there.

[monasterymonochrome]

It's a little early to be thinking about, but Emma and I have our sights set on New Mexico tbh

[alady]

I have some friends who semi-retired to Santa Fe but got kind of bored so they moved to Atlanta. They're currently spending a few months in Spain (he does some kind of freelance writing and consulting you can do from wherever).

All of that seems good.

[sthubbins]

I am going to London and South Wales next month if anyone happens to have any recs

[zircona1]

Mar 22, 2023 8:46:34 GMT -6 sthubbins said:

I am going to London and South Wales next month if anyone happens to have any recs

British Museum (free) and the Tower of London are both worth your time. 

[c1916]

Ceremony of the Keys at the Tower is my go to.

Looks like April might be sold out though.

[venom]

Mar 22, 2023 8:46:34 GMT -6 sthubbins said:

I am going to London and South Wales next month if anyone happens to have any recs

in london, V&A museum almost always has something worthwhile. british museum, national gallery, and tate modern are also worth a trip.

kricket soho and gymkhana are good for upscale indian food. 26 grains and granger & co. are delightful breakfast spots. i like gelupo for gelato.

in wales, i've explored brecon beacons a bit and had some wonderful hikes and views.

[Pale Hose]

Mar 22, 2023 8:46:34 GMT -6 sthubbins said:

I am going to London and South Wales next month if anyone happens to have any recs

Ottolenghi was the best meal I had in London both times I was there (we went to the original and Spitalfields). Strongly recommend making reservations in advance if you decide to go. Also, get a salt beef at Beigel Bake Brick Lane Bakery, tell 'em rango420 sent ya.

[claypoolfan]

Can’t put into words what an amazing country Japan is. I really wish I could move here. We’re only about a third of the way into our trip but I’m already dreading leaving.